Report from Afar

So… for the last week, we were in London. We’re in Paris now, but have only just arrived. Quite different.

I enjoyed London quite a bit. We went to a huge number of museums – not normally my thing, but the combination of them being 1.) free and 2.) diverse meant that they were a really good, and interesting way to pass the time.

We started off at the National Gallery, which was a good thing, because the organization of their exhibits was excellent. I went in without much context, or understanding about the real evolution of the various works, but left feeling like I had a reasonable idea about how various paintings were thematically or stylistically connected. The only thing that really left me cold was the section that was focused entirely on really old religious iconography, which I simply didn’t have the knowledge to even begin to comprehend.

After the National Gallery, we ended up at the Tate Modern (excellent content, very poorly organized, IMO – no sense of continuity or context – organizing modern art by theme (landscapes?) seems almost the worst way to have organized the various works. After that, off to the British Museum. We ended up focusing solely on the “left” wing (ha-ha), where their Egyptian, Greek and Roman works were kept. We took a quick spin through Korea, but basically, there was so much stuff that by the time we were completely wiped out, we’d still only seen half the museum.

On the last day in London, we went to the Imperial War Museum, and saw the Children in War exhibit, which as expected, was heartbreaking. There was more time, but I couldn’t really bring myself to go look at more of the consequence of war. Very interesting, very informative, and very, very heavy.

In terms of food, we did quite well, I think. We ended up eating at a couple excellent places – Gordon Ramsay’s Boxwood Cafe was quite good, and the best “bang for the buck” that we had, I believe. I had a really vivid dream about the dessert that evening – a Passionfruit Fool (basically, a yogurt/whipped cream mixture, flavored with passionfruit). Excellent stuff, and I hope that I can find a recipe somewhere to make some attempt at making it when we get home.

Still, the best meal I had in London was the dinner at the Savoy Grill. Started off with a variety of little things, but my starter was a smoked haddock omelette – easily the best egg dish I’ve ever had anywhere. Perfect in every way. The main was a lamb neck, which is kind of strange, but was done really well. The jus was a touch salty, but the meat and vegetables were perfectly done. The dessert was a rice pudding, which was good, but couldn’t hold a candle to Ei-Nyung’s cinnamon-infused creme brulee.

Whew.

Strangely, one of the other best meals I had was from a place called Bang! which you might have guessed was a sausage grill/bar place. Strangely, it was just across the way from the hotel, and looked sort of crap from the outside, but was actually quite elegant on the inside. We got a trio of sausages, mash, and onion gravy. The sausages were delicious, and varied, the mash was perfect, and well-complemented by the gravy. Also one of the cheapest meals we had while there.

Other meals of note, which I’m sure I’ll write about at some point:

Fish & Chips at a place called Rock and Sole Plaice – best fried fish I’ve had – the crust stuck to the fish like glue, and was nice and crispy. The chips were also great – greasy, to be sure, but nicely crispy and well-flavored.

Wagamama – a noodle chain – got a spicy chicken ramen which was largely unremarkable, but some duck gyoza that were delicious. The chocolate cake with a wasabi-infused frosting was also surprising, and quite good.

Yo Sushi was a bit of a letdown, but I should have known that going in. We hadn’t quite gotten adjusted to HOW GODDAMNED EXPENSIVE everything in London was, and looking at the menu, there were only a few things we were willing to gamble $10 for a bite or two on. They had some really excellent cheap dishes, like a chicken katsu curry (for $7), but the pricing was prohibitive to the style of dining they require.

Anyway – after all the museums and the food, what I left London with was a sense of affection – I really rather like the place, and there’s enough that we missed that I certainly wouldn’t mind going back. I could see living here for a year, maybe two, but holy crap is it expensive.

Paris is quite different – a little taller, and a little less like say, New York. There were moments in London, walking down Oxford St., that felt just like walking in midtown Manhattan, and not in a way that I particularly enjoy. Walking down Rue de Rombateau (I’m sure I butchered that), the sense I got was very different. On Monday after Easter, which is a bank holiday here, there was a huge tourist glut, but still, the open cafes and food stands was a welcome and interesting change from the place we’d spent the previous week.

And just for the record, the thing I thought when I walked out of the subway stop in Picadilly Circus was, “Hey, I’ve been here in PGR!” while walking by the Pompidou Centre, I thought, “Man, this looks much better in real life than it did in Midnight Club 2 or Midtown Madness 3.”

Tomorrow, we’ve got a city to explore. Tonight, we wash socks.

9 comments

  1. A_B says:

    Speaking of the cost of London, I don’t know why (I actually kind of do), but I tie in the buying power of of U.S. currency with its status in the world.

    Everything costing an arm and a leg in London sort of made me feel like “we suck. These Londoners have so much more money than us. I can’t afford anything”

    It’s pretty silly, but something that I felt anyway.

    I agree with your thoughts on London v. Paris. It’s part of the reason I could see myself easily transitioning to London, if it ever came to that, ignoring the language issue. It felt familiar in a lot of ways.

    Paris is a place I _wish_ I could fit into better. It made me think about taking French (for about 10 minutes). It had the European style, without the hardcore urbanism (not the term of art) of a New York. It wasn’t laid back, but it felt more … sophisticated? I’m not sure how to describe it. Sort of a recognition that there was more to the world than work, work, work.

    And a word of advice for when you get back: Invariably some asshole you know (likely a coworker) is going to go, “did you go to X?” in order to be a pain in the ass. You know, to try and say, “you didn’t go to X? Then your trip sucked.”

    Your flight back is a good time to prepare a retort. I like, “we asked some locals about that place and they said it sucked.”

  2. helava says:

    LOL! re: retort

    Damn doppelganger. Yeah, we’ve only been in Paris about half a day, but that’s more or less how I feel, well summed up.

    And yes, it’s a bank holiday, so people were wandering about that might not normally be wandering about, but there were a lot of weird little differences I liked about Paris – the throngs of parked scooters, the many, many seats outdoors, etc.

    Strangely, in some ways, it’s quite illuminating – it feels like I see a connection more strongly say, between Paris and Tokyo, than say, London or New York and Tokyo. Just odd.

  3. A_B says:

    BTW, I think I mentioned it before, but I recomend L’Atelier de Joel Rebuchon. It was #25 in this years best restaurants in the world.
    http://www.theworlds50best.com/bestlist.aspx

    More info:
    http://www.frommers.com/destinations/paris/D54507.html

    As it says, only reservations for the 6:30 seating. The rest are walk-ins. We showed up around 6:30 and were seated immediately (it filled up quickly).

    Pictures on the official site:
    http://www.hotel-pont-royal.com/hotel-Pont-Royal-restaurant-bar.html

    And if you don’t go, your trip is still awesome. 🙂

  4. hapacheese says:

    Actually, though I’ve never been to Paris, I thought the Tokyo/London connection was quite strong. But, we’re also probably thinking of different parts of Tokyo. Anywhere downtown and it’s INSANELY fast-paced to live/work there. Go out into the suburbs and it is extremely laid back. Weird gap of culture, considering downtown to suburbs is only about a difference of 15 yards or so.

    As for “Bang!,” I’m guessing that’s sa play on bangers, which is a type of sausage?

    Too bad you aren’t there next week… it’s looking like I’m heading out there =\

  5. helava says:

    Bang! is definitely a reference to “bangers.” Which, of course, always makes me think of “Would you like a banger in the mouth?” Or, as they say in America, “Would you like a sausage in the mouth?”

  6. Helava honeymoon! says:

    Rue Rombuteau is where my father had his first apartment, and there is apparently a good sidewalk cafe that does “steak-frites” (steak and fries) very well. So you’re in good hands. Enjoy the trip!

    Edward

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